I am someone who is most at rest when I’m
moving.
I prefer the
beaten path, and this week I have been walking “The Street” in HistoricDeerfield, Massachusetts where Mars and I took part in a Road Scholar Program
on “Stimulating Beverages: The History of Tea, Coffee and Chocolate in Early
America”.
“Historic
Deerfield Inc., founded in 1952, is an outdoor history museum that focuses on
the history and culture of the Connecticut River Valley and early New
England. It has a dual mission of
educating the public about the lifestyles of the diverse people who lived here
long ago and of preserving antique buildings and collections of regional
furniture, silver, textiles, and other decorative arts. First settled in 1669,
Deerfield is one of the few towns settled by English colonists along the
eastern seaboard that retains its original scale and town plan. Visitors are
offered guided and self-guided tours of 12 antique houses ranging in age from
1730 to 1850. Eleven of these houses are on their original sites.”
The antique
houses, along with an equal number of private residences from the same era, the
Deerfield Inn (where we stayed), and Deerfield Academy Prep School (founded in
1799) are arrayed on a one-mile long roadway called “The Street”. It would be the quintessential place to walk
on a crisp, autumn day – wearing a warm sweater while passing by brown and
white 18th century New England houses surrounded by white wooden fences, with
tall Hydrangeas drying on the vine, and the red and orange leaves suspended
overhead and crunching under your feet.
But that would be a few weeks from now.
This week, while prematurely cool, featured lighter weight clothing and
green foliage. Nonetheless…
The Deerfield
Inn is located at the midpoint of “The Street”.
In our three days there Mars and I walked twice to each end. North to visit two homes of former
residents – one a wealthy farmer and
entrepreneur, the other an ultimately unhappy British Sympathizing
Congregational Minister – and again to see the museum’s collection of American
silverware, including communion metalware from various churches in the
area. The southerly route took us to the
Flynt Museum for a material culture discussion about how tea addiction and the
lack of Colonial self-sufficiency led to revolution; and a reconstruction of a
parlor conversation, with tea, on women’s fashions of the day. Other classes on the respective histories and
making of tea, coffee, and chocolate – with tastings – were held in the visitor
center across from the Inn.
(click to enlarge)
The sidewalks were largely deserted except for occasional students heading to or from Deerfield Academy – boys in blue blazers, button downs, ties, chinos slacks (or, in two cases, shorts), and all manner of foot ware – girls dressed in the various non-uniform uniforms of teenage girls, or field hockey gear.
Mars and I
also took a side trip along the Channing Blake Footpath to the Deerfield
River. The dirt pathway led through a
small working farm where two large pigs, totally uninterested in their
visitors, snorted and wallowed in their mud-filled pen and Holstein cows lay on
the sun warmed grass – curious enough to tilt an ear and raise their heads, but
no more.
The river
itself was at this point in time not much more than a slow moving brook. Its waters however, along with those of the
Connecticut River on the other side of town, rise enough to totally irrigate
the land in between making it one of the most fertile farming areas in the
northeast. Colonial farmers fortunate to
happen upon this self-sustaining land needed to go no further to make their
wealth. There is however a down side to
waterways’ largesse. In 2011 Hurricane
Irene caused flooding into the village itself that put over half of the
Deerfield Inn under water and rendered it inoperable for eighteen months.
On our way
back we looked to the north where a clear blue sky tried to meet the green land
below but our view of their union was blocked by an intervening shock of row on
row-on-row corn rising from the fruitful earth.
I took
advantage of our early wake-up habits to also walk “The Street” during the
pre-dawn hour. The temperature was in
the fifties and the fog, which had accumulated during the overnight, was
beginning to disperse. As I walked by
the Academy one of blazer-and-backpack clad teachers bicycled onto the campus
balancing on his left leg as his vehicle coasted to a halt. While from across the street a male prep,
identically clad, and a leggy plaid-skirted clad girl entered the grounds from
opposite ends, striding determinedly like a haze-bound Alberto Giacometti
walking sculpture.
Further on a
startlingly white small dog urged its leash-bound walker to slow down. And up the road a piece a swarthy,
wrinkle-faced man in equally wrinkled black clothes stood motionless at the start
of the Channing Bake Footpath exhaling his cigarette smoke into the surrounding
mist. Unlike “Field of Dreams” there
were, alas, however no ghosts emerging from the haze – unless, that is, they
themselves were the vapor returning to the familiar shelter of their homes for
another day of reminiscing.
On our drive
up to this session Mars and I stopped at the Magic Wings Butterfly Conservatory& Gardens in nearby South Deerfield to visit their 8,000-square foot glass
conservatory filled with hundreds of butterflies, moths and tropical
vegetation. We spent about an hour
strolling through the glass house as the brightly colored insects flapped and
floated around us – all of them, the attendant explained, intent on maximizing
their five day lifespan on earth by feeding and mating to the max.
The population
of the Conservatory is largely self-sustaining with butterfly eggs transferred from
the in-house tropical plants to their “nursery” for pupation and birth. Others are however brought in throughout the
year from other parts of the world to add variety and improve the
population. Two sets of entry and exit
doors plus a bank of mirrors for self-scanning are intended to ensure that no
residents inadvertently leave their protective dome
Historic
Deerfield while dedicated to preserving and presenting a particular point in
time in a particular place, likewise adapts.
Between the Academy and the Inn is “The Brick Church”, the fifth
meetinghouse of a congregation dating back to 1673 – the year that the
Deerfield settlement was incorporated.
Originally Congregational, it was the literal, and the figurative center
of town. Today it is used by both
Unitarians and Congregationalists – a sign, along with the female and
non-Caucasian preppies, that even in this bastion of historical preservation,
things do change.
And, like all
good historians, the Textile Curator eagerly accepted information that I gave
him on Sophia Woodhouse – a 19th century bonnet maker and entrepreneur from our
town of Wethersfield, Connecticut – someone unknown in Historic Deerfield.
The
Pre-Socratic philosopher Heraclitus said, "Ever-newer waters flow on those
who step into the same rivers." I
would add – and to those who walk the established road with a good guide and a
curious eye.