“Calvin: I
like to verb words.
Hobbes: What?
Calvin: I take
nouns and adjectives and use them as verbs. Remember when "access"
was a thing? Now it's something you do. It got verbed. . . . Verbing weirds
language.
Hobbes: Maybe
we can eventually make language a complete impediment to understanding.”
We 21st
Centurions did not invent “verbing”.
Mars and I spent the past week in Cape May New Jersey – the seaside
vacation locale to which large numbers of the newly emerging Victorian middle
class “resorted” in the later 1800s.
The
twisting of defenseless nouns into service as verbs was one of many such
affectations – linguistic, social and architectural – that we (and
twenty-nine other “people of the finest sort”) studied at “A Victorian Primer
in Cape May” Road Scholar program. It
was our first time ever in that vacationland, or anywhere along the Jur-zee
shore.
Our
accommodations…I’m sorry, I meant to say, we were accommodated at a circa 1890
wooden hotel of the “eclectic” Victorian style.
One of the drivers of the horse-drawn carriages that haul tourists
around town proclaimed our temporary residence as the first local guesthouse to
have running water and electricity. It
wasn’t. It did however have the earliest
working elevator in town – a product of Connecticut’s Otis Elevator Corporation
who provided documentary proof to that fact in a memo prominently displayed on
a sidewall of the device. It is still in
service, holding four reasonably thin riders and one professionally trained
operator.
There were
ninety-nine rooms – we know because we stayed in the penultimate one – and we
had to ascend sixty-six steps to get to the fifth floor that houses room number
99.
In keeping
with the complicated nature of Victorian design there was of course not one continuous
staircase but rather four distinct sections each separated by a fair amount of
floor space and, in two instances, hidden from view until you were directly in
front of them. Because of the resulting
high guest-to-elevator ratio we mostly walked up and down – except when
suitcase lugging was involved. (Let’s
see – 5 days times 5 trips per day times 66 steps up plus 66 steps down -
Fuh-gedda-boud-dit!)
The Victorian
middle class traveled via boat from New York City and Philadelphia to the then
newly constructed hotels of Cape May with their servants in tow. Room 99 was used to house some of those
minions. Nowadays it is spiffed up with
a king-sized bed, wicker furniture, an indoor toilet, a voting booth sized
shower, and an eye-level view of sea gulls coasting past the three rooftop-view
windows.
The schedule
called for breakfast at 8:30 a.m. in the hotel’s glass enclosed porch dining
room – which provided plenty of time for Mars, our traveling companion Sandy,
and me to perform our ablutions and promenade for an hour or so along the sand
and strand next to the Jur-zee war-der.
(Although we
also had significant opportunities for a ”taking of the waters” by bathing in
the waves of the Atlantic Ocean, we declined.
As part of preparing for this junket Mars and I reread “Close to Shore”,
a non-fiction book by journalist Michael Capuzzo about the Jersey Shore shark
attacks of 1916. It’s been almost 100
years – but still, why take any
chances. Besides, as the Victorians
would say, the surf was friggin’ cold.)
There were
historical reenactors of such real-life Victorians as the eponymous Queen, her
husband Prince Albert, John Phillip Sousa, Cape May luminary Dr. Emlen Physik
and others – but no real survivors of the era other than the buildings. Many of the wooden structures had burned down
during the great fire of 1878. But many
more were spared in the inferno or were constructed or rebuilt after that –
some out of brick. (The Victorian Age
ran from 1840 to 1910.)
Like virtually
every aspect of Victorian life the architecture reflected the lifestyle,
beliefs, and priorities of the people – the major point of which was to impress
other people with their social standing and wealth. Victorian houses were status symbols – and
the guiding principle was that there was no such thing as too much.
General
Victorian architectural features are bay windows, Palladian windows, roof
ornaments, Gingerbread trim, and large porches.
The various styles are Italianate
(1840-85), Gothic Revival (1835-75), Mansard or 2nd Empire (1855-85),
Stick (1865-85), Queen Anne (1875-1910), Shingle (1880-1915), Colonial
(1885-1915), Eclectic, and (everyone’s favorite) “Drunken Architect”. The houses and hotels on Cape May were
multi-colored and painted in what were considered earth tones which seemed to include dull greens and
maroons.
The list of
Victorian architectural terms is equally as poetic as the houses themselves:
acroterion, balustrade, cupola, finial, shark’s tooth shingles, jerkinhead
roof, pediment, turret, vergeboard and vestibule – inspiring haikus such as:
Finials aren’t a
couple of cupolas, they’re
acroteria.
I can actually
picture the Victorian architects and builders picking through Lego-like piles
of the above pieces plus chamfered posts, fanlights, et al – while the
owners stand in the background shouting “More! More!”
My favorite
Victoriana architectural feature however is the hanging bathroom. We were told that in order to ensure that
everyone knew when a person could afford an indoor toilet they would add it
conspicuously to the side of the house on the second floor – with no other
structure beneath it. We saw several of
these pendent privies on our guided architectural tour and our own un (or
possible mis) guided strolls through town.
Our class
didn’t go into much detail as to exactly how this new middle class came about
but the June 17, 2013 Hartford Courant had a syndicated “At Work” column by Rex
W. Huppke, which explained:
“As we evolved
and got meaner, slave labor made up the bulk of many civilization’s workforces,
eventually giving way to lower classes who were paid meager sums and treated
horribly. Work was toil.
“In his book
‘Blood, Sweat & Tears: The Evolution of Work,” Richard Donkin details how
technological advancements brought forth factories and mass production, which
required layers of management instead of one tyrannical boss.”
Some former
servants even rose in class and became masters.
Mars and I
wondered under what circumstances we might have come to Cape May in our prior
Victorian lives. I suspect that, given
my family background, I would have been more likely to be schlepping trunks
packed with frock coats and top hats than to be wearing them. Or I might have been toting hoop skirts and
poke bonnets for m’lady. After which I
would trudge up what remained of the sixty-six stairs to room number 99 – minus
the wicker furniture and the loo.
But now,
thanks to still more technological advancements, a few successful investments,
and lots of good luck Mars and I are able to pay big bucks to be accommodated
in the very same place.
Wud-ever!
Photos by Mars. More pics coming soon at http://www.viewmars.blogspot.com/